Journal I : Expedition to Glacier Bay, Alaska, Summer 1890

June 27th

Friday, at Fort [Mariyell?]. We reached Port Townsend, Monday 23rd early and saw them taking in freight until 12 n. We then crossed over to Victoria arriving there at 3:30 pm. Beautiful gardens and hard English roads introduced us to the town; where all was neat and English looking. [Written sideways in margin] Passed [MS illegible] Better Breed Indians. The men from the towns on Puget Sound often go to Victoria and buy their clothes, which they can buy better and cheaper than behind our tariff wall. The harbor is beautiful. Olympic range of mts. to S; just slightly explored. We sailed about 10 and reached [Nanarino?] early Tuesday morning, where we took on coal for the U.S. S.S. Pinta. Beautiful tropical-looking foliage, and splendid harbor. We lay there until 2 pm so as to reach a narrow passage at the turn of the tide. On Wednesday morning 25th, we passed Queen Charlotte Sound and for three hours were exposed to the Pacific Swell, which, which cleaned the decks pretty well. Again in the afternoon the swell in [Milhawk?] Sound carried many to seek their cabins. Whales (fin-back) were seen, spouting and diving. On the morning of Thursday June 26th Dixon Entrance was passed; the last opening would [we?] approach Silka. We went up Behm Canal to Burroughs Bay, where a cannery is established. A large river, not given on the charts, [power with its canal?], and its water yellow with glacier mud, makes a strong sharp line of contact with the deep blue water of the straight. We cast anchor for about an hour, within 300 ft of the shore in 21 fathoms of water. The Capt. bought a young [bear?] here.

Today, Friday we spend at Fort [Mariyell?], awaiting the tide. The totems, I photographed with my Kodak; and bought a few garnets which came from somewhere on the Stikeen River not far from here. Up to the present we have had very disagreeable weather; frequent showers and low clouds have pretty well prevented us from seeing the high mountains, tho' the [MS illegible] in these narrow channels, with snow-sprinkled mountains behind we are very charming. The New Eddystone Light-house, a nearly perpendicular rock rising about 200 ft from a platform in the middle of Behm Canal, covered with [thrushes?], is very striking. To-day the showers are continual. There are [MS illegible] amusing persons on the boat: The Kangaroo; The Lady with the Toothpick; Son; and Son's Ma and Pa.

Mr. [Gorman?] left us at Loring yesterday; he is Seat. of Explor. Section of Oregon Alpine Club, and is out collecting plants. He gave me some information about the two exploring parties, led by Prof. Wells, with two young college students and [MS illegible] expect to cross the Chilkat Pass and go around the St. Elias range, coming out at the Copper River. The ascent of Mt. St. Elias is to be made en route!! Mr. I.C. Russell and Mr. Kerr are to make a more direct attempt at the Mountain; from what information I can collect of their preparations and adaptability for such and expedition, I judge they will not get up.

Yesterday I compare my chronometer with the Captain's. I will make another comparison before leaving the ship.

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