Journal I : Expedition to Glacier Bay, Alaska, Summer 1890

June 30th

The ship lay all day yesterday on E. side of Lynn Canal. This morning, Cushing, Adams, Morse and I had our boat set out and started to sail [MS illegible] to Pyramid Harbor, so called from a small cone shaped island in front of it. This island as far as we could judge is part of a moraine. We shipped so much water on account of the high sea running that we finally boarded a fishing smack, and got them to tow our boat ashore. Mr. Laws, superintendent of the cannery said it was doubtful if we could secure proper Indians and recommended that we should take a white man Wm York, and we made an arrangement for him to go with us. We are to pay his expenses and give him $50 a month. If at the end of one month we desire it, he will go back to Pyramid harbor. We had about two hours before the steamer left; and Cushing Morse and I started to ascend the old moraine of a small valley glacier which lies in the valley just behind Pyramid harbor. The moraine was thickly wooded every step. In places Devil's club scratched made us wish we had taken another route. We ascended 750 ft but could not see the glacier on account of a turn in the valley. The day was beautifully clear and the mountains behind glorious, quite equal to the swiss alps. The stream cuts thro' a gorge in one place.

The sail down Lynn Canal was most interesting. Mountains and glaciers on both sides, and great [here?] fields alone made a scene, such as I have never seen before. About ten o'clock we turned up Glacier Bay and saw Crillon and Fairweather looming up ahead; they are magnificent mts.

June 29th

Chilcat [Chilkat]. We cast anchor at the cannery here this morning just as I got up; having passed Davidson's Glacier about an hour earlier. This glacier is about ten miles south of the ship and projects well out into the inlet, surrounded by its wooded terminal moraine. We Mr. Cushing and I went ashore in a dry-out to see if we could hire two Indians to go to Glacier Bay, but did not succeed. We may do better this afternoon at Pyramid harbor. The mountains around us rise 3000 to 6000 ft and are much covered with snow, ice and glaciers; this is the first real alpine scenery we have had. The mountains tops are mostly in the clouds.

[Additional script:] Miss H.M. Andrews
                                      State Bank of Olympia
                                             Olympia Wash.

June 28th

Juneau. Reached here early this morning; it has rained off and on all day. Found Mr. Willard who was very kind in helping me to get information about Glacier Bay Indians too high to hire. Mr. Allen spent a summer prospecting at in Glacier Bay and gave me some good points. Clouds low and no view. Bought a chart (701 N.S.C.T.G.S.) and some tracing linen, Miss Andrews alone. I [MS illegible] party went to see the Indian dancers, which were given as an exhibition. In evening ship went over to Douglas Island and we went thro' the stamp-mill (into stamps) and saw where the ore was taken out.

June 27th

Friday, at Fort [Mariyell?]. We reached Port Townsend, Monday 23rd early and saw them taking in freight until 12 n. We then crossed over to Victoria arriving there at 3:30 pm. Beautiful gardens and hard English roads introduced us to the town; where all was neat and English looking. [Written sideways in margin] Passed [MS illegible] Better Breed Indians. The men from the towns on Puget Sound often go to Victoria and buy their clothes, which they can buy better and cheaper than behind our tariff wall. The harbor is beautiful. Olympic range of mts. to S; just slightly explored. We sailed about 10 and reached [Nanarino?] early Tuesday morning, where we took on coal for the U.S. S.S. Pinta. Beautiful tropical-looking foliage, and splendid harbor. We lay there until 2 pm so as to reach a narrow passage at the turn of the tide. On Wednesday morning 25th, we passed Queen Charlotte Sound and for three hours were exposed to the Pacific Swell, which, which cleaned the decks pretty well. Again in the afternoon the swell in [Milhawk?] Sound carried many to seek their cabins. Whales (fin-back) were seen, spouting and diving. On the morning of Thursday June 26th Dixon Entrance was passed; the last opening would [we?] approach Silka. We went up Behm Canal to Burroughs Bay, where a cannery is established. A large river, not given on the charts, [power with its canal?], and its water yellow with glacier mud, makes a strong sharp line of contact with the deep blue water of the straight. We cast anchor for about an hour, within 300 ft of the shore in 21 fathoms of water. The Capt. bought a young [bear?] here.

Today, Friday we spend at Fort [Mariyell?], awaiting the tide. The totems, I photographed with my Kodak; and bought a few garnets which came from somewhere on the Stikeen River not far from here. Up to the present we have had very disagreeable weather; frequent showers and low clouds have pretty well prevented us from seeing the high mountains, tho' the [MS illegible] in these narrow channels, with snow-sprinkled mountains behind we are very charming. The New Eddystone Light-house, a nearly perpendicular rock rising about 200 ft from a platform in the middle of Behm Canal, covered with [thrushes?], is very striking. To-day the showers are continual. There are [MS illegible] amusing persons on the boat: The Kangaroo; The Lady with the Toothpick; Son; and Son's Ma and Pa.

Mr. [Gorman?] left us at Loring yesterday; he is Seat. of Explor. Section of Oregon Alpine Club, and is out collecting plants. He gave me some information about the two exploring parties, led by Prof. Wells, with two young college students and [MS illegible] expect to cross the Chilkat Pass and go around the St. Elias range, coming out at the Copper River. The ascent of Mt. St. Elias is to be made en route!! Mr. I.C. Russell and Mr. Kerr are to make a more direct attempt at the Mountain; from what information I can collect of their preparations and adaptability for such and expedition, I judge they will not get up.

Yesterday I compare my chronometer with the Captain's. I will make another comparison before leaving the ship.

June 22nd (Sunday)

Steamer now late [(]sailed about 6 pm[)]; showery weather. Saw our freight put on board. Ship canine is head of cattle to [paean?]. Bought a row-boat with a sail at an enormous price $75. The letter from Mr. Millard, [MS illegible], led us to expect to pay $2 to 2.50 per day for each Indian. We therefore bought this [boat?] and intend to do without Indians, except perhaps for  a week or two.

June 21st

Made morning and afternoon magnetic observations today; also some [un?]satisfactory observations on Sun. At noon come one come [all?] with Mr. Anderson's (jeweller) observed meridian passage of Sun for to determine time. I determined conection for my chron. but do not consider the observations my accounts.

June 20th

Showers off and on; Mt Tacoma still hid. A bear near the hotel is the great excitement, tho it does not offer much variety in its movements.

Everything is progressing finely for our trip.

Commenced magnetic observations today; [but?] could not determine the meridian for lack of [sun?] at right time. Hope to do this tomorrow.